A primitivo and coffee in Belgium

Ghent on a sunny afternoon

There are places where I can feel at ease straight away. It is the same feeling as when you take off your coat and know that you will spend some indefinable time in a location. Or is it a kind of an island where I can find refuge and tranquility? I am not talking about resting in the heart of the forest, surrounded by tall and green trees, or lying on a golden beach and watching the waves hovering the shore.

I am referring to a café or a bar, which makes me feel this way.

The cities Antwerp and Ghent in Belgium have fascinated me from the moment I saw them. They both enfold an old spirit who can share the secrets of life with you.

They both share a quaint and picturesque center town and lovely ancient houses. Antwerp has its marvelous cathedral, which contains the artworks of Rubens. It is like an illuminated lighthouse at night, lightening up the old town. Ghent has these colourful quirky houses, the river Lys flows through the city, giving it the ‘Venetian’ flair.

In both cities, you can find thousands of chocolate sorts, a beer that streams like water, and good vibes. These cities, especially in warm weather, seem flawless, as if they were sweet promises.

I always seek a café or a bar with an authentic character.

It is there, where I find consolation and inspiration. It attracts all the poetic, wanderers, philosophers, introverts, and flamboyant souls.

The first that caught my attention was the" Witzli- Poetzli" bar in Antwerp. It is located just below the renowned Cathedral.

Its name resonated with a wizard from an old fairy tale. I felt as If I had entered a place embedded with layers of history and anecdotes.

I learned afterward, from one of the locals, that the particular name was inspired by one of the characters of the Bulgakov novel “The Master and Margarita” 

There was an old scent of beer or other alcohol inside. Even fused in the walls. It has an upstairs room. I quite liked it. It looks more a house then a bar.

The current owner is also a DJ, so if I wanted to discover a new great track or, possibly an old tune I have heard before or a familiar one from a long time ago. I could have listened to it there,

As the band XTC. I suddenly heard the tune ‘Generals and Majors’, and the bar was filling with life as a magic ball.

The customers, coming in and out, never fail to bore me. They look as if they were participating in a play. They all have their habitual role, so maybe that is why you call a loyal client "un habitué" in French. Most of them drink beer; we are still in Belgium. But there are always wine lovers like me; I am particularly fond of "Primitivo." It is a rich and delicious wine, originally from the region Puglia in Italy. The name signifies that the grapes were early matured. The wine is fruity and tastes like dark chocolate mixed with berries. Even you can recall scents of cinnamon spices.

As a regular customer, the barman knows me already and says," A Primitivo? (he knows it's my favorite)" in a sort of ritual, to which I will respond, “yes”.

Antwerp is a multicultural city; there are many students from all over Europe, tourists, and locals from diverse nationalities. You can hear conversations in Dutch, English, German, French, and other languages from every street corner. From a simple observation, one should be friendly in this bar. You sit on a bench of wood, one next to another, so even if you read a book, there is always the moment when you start chatting with your neighbor.

I learned, for example, about the concert’s venue "De Roma" from a guy sitting next to me or other recommendations of what to see and do in Antwerp.

I have called this bar "the hidden Berlin" in Antwerp. It has reminded me of the shady wave of Berlin's bars and the alternative subculture.

Rembrandt - A Self Portait

Once, while sitting there, I saw a guy with a fiery lion's mane. His bouncy curls were his signature. He had a pale, porcelain skin and a delicate mysterious smile.  He was dressed in a bohemian 60s vintage style. That was the new barman. It looked like he had stepped out of a Flemish drawing from the Dutch Golden Ages, perhaps of the painter Rembrandt or Vermeer. I could literally see him in a velvet green jacket standing beside a heavy wooden table, gazing at the window.

When he crossed the room in his charismatic way, a ray of light encircled him. His expressions and his moves were dramatic and subtle at the same time. He was like a Shakespearean comedian announcing his entrance.

The whole bar had turned into a theater stage, and I was waiting for the performance to begin.

From Antwerp, an hour's drive by train, you reach another beautiful Flemish city. Ghent. The rays of light caressed the houses tinted in soft pastel.

The shops were closed on Sunday, I was strolling in the narrow streets, traversing a few bridges. The landscape seemed nearly euphoric, with the water flowing underneath, glistening in the sunlight of a lazy Sunday afternoon. It is the river Lys.

I had wished to sit in a café but didn't know which one. It has to be to my taste, so it shouldn't be too touristy.

Ghent has quite a cozy and laidback atmosphere.

Whenever I visit this city, it surprises me how much it has to offer, more than I initially thought. I especially love the diversity of the bookshops. You can easily find books in English or French. The sellers were more than pleased to advise me about an extraordinary novel that I had never heard of. It was the end of April. Finally, the sun blazed with all its strength. You could tell that the people were enjoying the festive weather. Belgium's sky is usually grey, and it rains quite often, typical of northern European weather.

Many were sitting in the cafés and bars, exposing themselves to the generous sunlight and drinking beer in all glass sizes. There was a nonstop feeling of partying in the city. I noticed a vinyl record shop in the corner, "Music Mania Records".   It tempted me to get in. It was like a sacred music temple painted in striking red.  I love seeing people holding old books and touching vinyl records. A world that has nearly gone, the world of yesterday, that was without digital technology, where telephone screens didn't build invisible walls, creating separation between humans.

This universe seems like a distant dream, yet there are still places that capture these times. I tried to find them wherever I go.

This shop was a true revelation. The ideal location next to the river. Water streams like good music.

What thrilled me the most was finding that there was a coffee bar inside as well. You could chill out with a quality roaster coffee and listen to a spiritual, meditative Jazz, for example, by the musician Lonnie Liston Smith. I leaned on the glass of the window and watched the river below. Beside the shop, stands a magnificent tree. Ghent has wrapped me with the hearty, harmonious sounds of music, nostalgia, and memories melting in the warm air. The manager, Steve, is passionate about music and has introduced me to various styles of great melodies during my stay.

He told me an anecdote about the British actor Stephen Fry, who chose to live in Brugge for a while because he felt it was easy to hide there; it is interesting, although Brugge is a fairy tale city lookalike. I prefer Ghent, which I find no less pretty but more down-to-earth and intimate.  He also told me that there is another "Music Mania Records”, in Ghent, it is the first independent record shop that was opened. It is the oldest vinyl record shop in Belgium. 

It was soon evening, but the sky remained clear blue, and the spring's easygoing mood emerged like a cheery jazz song.

By Niva Josef