Luberon- Authentic and splendid.
- Niva
- Nov 23, 2025
- 7 min read
Updated: Jan 3
Today Paris was waking up under a veil of snow. The icy winter has arrived without any notification. I would like to hold in my memory some soft hearted, warm moments I had at the end of September in the Luberon in Provence.( a region located in the south-east of France)..
I have already visited it, but only a part of what this prosperous region has to offer. It dominates many villages, they propose each of them a unique experience, that will make you grasp its spirit. Luberon offers an incredible fusion of nature and art, featuring eye-catching visuals and a profound emotional impact.
So let's be inspirational. Let me tell you what I felt during my stay.
You know the saying, " You can't step into the same river twice." We change constantly, it feels like the landscape looks diverse, even if you have been in the place before. There is a sort of a permanent mouvement and there will be a revelation.
The last time I visited Luberon was during the COVID-19 pandemic. Not everything was open, but I saw so many amazing sights and remembered them well. Mainly, the fusion between art and nature is ingrained in my mind.
I started with the charming city of Apt, which I had already seen, but it looked even livelier and quainter then I remembered. I enjoyed walking along the old and picturesque city center, with all the chic boutiques and restaurants.
One of the remarkable symbols of Apt is the gold sculpture of the saint Anne above the Saint-Anne's cathedral. It is situated in the cosy and animated center, and after visiting the church, you jump literally into a lovely patisserie and enjoy a coffee with a croissant. I found a few very nice spots while walking around the center.
From Apt, we drove to another old and preserved village, Saignon. I always feel, when I step into a beautiful old town in France, as if I have gone inside a precious jewelry box.
The houses in Saignon were all lovely and ancient, garnished with the natural decoration of leaves. In autumn, "the wine leaves," as I call them, make the landscape look passionate.
We arrived at the adorable Fountain Square and walked up to the Roc de Belle Vue.
From there you have a spectacular panorama
From Saignon, we went to the village of Bonnieux.
On the way, you pass next to one particular bridge, "Pont Julien"
It is a striking bridge. It is a stone arch bridge over the Cavalon River, dating back to 3 BC. It was the first Roman road built in France.
The best view it at sunset; the landscape is out of this world. The whole region of Luberon may be the other half of the sunset, as in every village, the light over the scenery is just breathtaking.
Bourgeois in Luberon
There are all the reasons if you love art and nature to arrive in Luberon. My purpose this time was to discover the Louise Bourgeois church- Église Louise Bourgeois in the village of Bonnieux. Please check when the church is open for visits.
Louise Bourgeois is an outstanding and original sculptor and painter, one of the most influential female artists in the 20th century. Her strong character and singular visions are embodied in her creation. She was born in Paris and immigrated later to New -York.
Her works are typically presented in vast urban spaces.
Renowned museums from around the world show her artworks. One of her most famous creations is the gigantic spider, which has been displayed in numerous locations worldwide.
It was extraordinary for me to enter this sober and holy church dedicated to Louise Bourgeois. Particularly in that scenic location. The artist created artworks specifically for the church, exploring themes related to the relationship with God, Jesus, and Maria, crafted with thoughtfulness and sensitivity. An interesting fact, I learned that Louise Bourgeois was born on the same date as Jesus- 25/12
It was more than just an enthusiastic feeling; to enter this sacred world —the original and powerful vision of Louise Bourgeois. Her authentic and original creativity is giving a new perspective to the holy experience.
I have a personal connection to this iconic artist.
My brother, the photographer and painter Adar Josef, was her assistant for a couple of years when he lived in New York as a young artist. She was his spiritual guide. as a tutor, Louise Bourgeois saw the young man who had a craving to create. She believed in his talent and let him photograph her, in different self portrait, sharing with him her knowledge and life's experiences.
He has been telling me so many anecdotes, their conversations, things that she said, that he treasured, in a way, I felt like she was accompanying me as well, in the paths of life.
Ménerbes an arty and a wine village.
The next day, I visited the village of Ménerbes. It is a historical, beautiful village, perched high and offering stunning views.
The village breathes culture like Bonnieux. One of its pearls is the domain of Dora Maar.
She was known as Picasso's companion and muse, but she was also an artist in her own right, a talented photographer and painter. The residence offers an intimate glimpse into the world of Dora Maar, her creations, and her tastes. Contemplating the artworks, you step into her world, and it transports you back in time.
I was moved and touched as I linked the visions of the firm and courageous Louise Bourgeois, whose works are now celebrated worldwide, with the delicate and fragile Dora Maar. Both women had to swim against all odds to get the recognition for their talent.
The lives of these two artists are vastly distinct in many ways, yet the region Luberon is here to honor their legacy through its fantastic landscapes, and their eternal art forms a bond between them.
Dora Maar's house now serves as a residence for artists who can come and stay there for a while, to write and work.
Do you like truffles? This distinctive mushroom offers a unique flavor. In Ménerbes exists "la Maison de la Truffe et du Vin". It is a pure marvelous combination between truffle and wine, and they are presented with class and elegance, and open one’s appetite,
You can visit this charming place and enjoy the view of the precious garden. I had in that 17th-century mansion wine tasting and appreciated the Provençal specialties. The welcoming and the guide were very kind and enlightening.
I ate toast with truffle paste and sipped a glass of wine, taking a glance over the elegant room, and it was a fantastic sensation.
Arriving again to the village of Bonnieux, I felt I had returned in the arms of an old, dedicated friend. The stunning colours of the sunset plunged me in such a happy mood.
What a sensation, drinking a glass of wine in the heart of nature in Bonnieux. At Château La Canorgue, a family-owned castle. I tasted a refined and exceptional wine. Natalie, the owner of the castle, is very welcoming and pleasant. She explained the domain's family history and its various phases. It was exciting to visit the vineyard and the wine cellar. Natalie is passionate about her wine, and it was fascinating to hear about the wine-making process and the stories behind it. The relationship between wine and nature is specialized in biodynamic wine cultivation. I learned quite a lot. As it is a family heritage, she and her father invested in the place, that was abandoned and managed to make it so prosperous. You can buy bottles from their fabrication at a reasonable price.
Whenever I sense the wine's perfume wafting through the air, it fills me with joy and inspiration. When I stepped out to the wonderful garden, the afternoon light was itself like a great wine.
The nature in the village is a piece of art. The sun started to set. I was immersed in the flaming orange and rose that wrapped me. As I was walking back to the hotel. All of a sudden, I saw Louise Bourgeois sitting on a high stone. on a sidewalk. She was sculpting a new creation and was deeply concentrated; it was as if she were still alive. and it was natural to see het. I greeted her, she gave me that fierce look, but all of a sudden she smiled when I mentioned my brother's name, I told her how much her persona and memoir are a part of my life, that my brother's stories of her had a significant impact on me. I even asked her for some advice.
She was whispering to my ear a few words of wisdom.
While I was wondering whether to continue our conversation or let her get on with her work, I woke up from my dream, and the blazing colours of the sunset in Bonnieux were flamboyant as an old master drawing.
Great recommandations
I stayed two nights in Bonnieux.
The first was the 5 stars hotel Hotel Capelongue, I had also had a wonderful dinner in their restaurant - La Bergerie. One of the main attraction of this hotel, besides the well being, and a most comfortable and exquisite experience, is its location. The scenery is amazing and you are immersed in the Bonnieux colours experience.
The second night I stayed in a charming, family hotel - Le Clos du Buis, which is found at the entrance of the village. It was an intimate, cozy and atypical room. It felt bohemian and delicate, at the same time, and was like a natural connection with my artistic experience in the region.
Not only the room was unique, as expected there is a charming garden where you can have a rest.
Luberon offers a diverse culinary cuisine. From luxury, haute-cuisine restaurants to more affordable and yet delicious food.
You can find as well nice bakeries where you can sit down and have a great coffee and a French pastry.
I would like to recommend on Bistro de France.
A lovely restaurant in Apt. A French traditional restaurant with delicious food. Highly recommend.
Nou a restaurant Pizzeria, with various dishes, Just yummy, cool and trendy place to eat in Bonnieux
I found it original, creative with young and vibrant atmosphere with a very good food.
Text and images
Niva Josef
C'etait très intéressant a lire
Ravie de découvrir votre reportage.
Merci.
madame, felicitations. j'ai voyagé avec vous dans tous ces magnifiques endroits.
Wow, beautiful descriptions of a gorgeous region.