Along the perfumed paths of the Pays de Manosque

I don't know how you feel in front of a perfume shop, especially an Occitane one. I know that I would like just to plunge in and immerse myself in the scents of Provence.

Citrus, mandarin, lavender and jasmine, fragrances that are incorporated so well in Provence, are an invitation to be surrounded by the natural flavours of that region.

There are many companies that reclaim making great natural perfumes and creams, but L’Occitane, based in the heart of Pays de Manosque, is really unique in making the scents almost as real.

I would like to invite you, the readers, to a ravishing escape in the heart of Provence. “Le pays de Manosque”

In French, Pays means "country". But it can also signify a region. Le Manosque, whose capital city is Manosque, is a vast territory that combines villages, fields, historic sites, lakes, and natural gifts that are so wholesome there.

The factory- "Occitane en Provence"

Landing in "Occitane en Provence" at the factory, it is located on the outskirts of Manosque, in the heart of Provence. What a great sensation to start my journey in this amazing place. Occitane celebrates a 50-year anniversary.  We started by sitting in the nurtured garden, having a fresh drink. The sun greeted me as I arrived in Provence at the end of April.

Our guide, Linda Ouarghi who works in the Occitane tourism office, showed us, with enthusiasm and professionalism, the different rooms that explain the perfume- and cream-making process. It is a very agreeable tour because there are many short films, basically in every hall, to show you the procedure. The children will enjoy it too.  The rooms are illuminated, and the scent of the herbs and fruits is in the air.

The location near Manosque is ideal, as Provence is renowned for its wealth of natural and organic ingredients, including lavender, almond, olive and aromatic herbs.

The moment I step into the L’Occitane store, I am overwhelmed by the wonderful aromas; it feels so natural and alive.

So, imagine the factory’s boutique. It was a feast for the senses. It is enormous and filled with indulgent treats and beautifully scented products, so as the French saying goes, “L’embarras du choix” (spoilt for choice). I couldn’t buy all the shop, even if I wished; I chose a perfume and a hand cream.

Whenever I close my eyes, I can put on some Occitane perfume and be again transported on the wings of Provence.

“The days are like fruit, and our role is to eat them” Jean Giono.

Le Parais - Jean Giono domain in Manosque - Center Jean Giono: His house and his gardens.

There were many highlights in my visit to “The Pays de Manosque”, but entering the mansion of one of the greatest French writers who resided in Provence, in the city of Manosque, was definitely one of the finest.

Still enveloped in the scent of L’Occitane, I walked down a narrow street lined with tall green trees; it was a warm day. Well before the heatwave currently sweeping across France and Europe.  Since the villa is still undergoing renovations, I felt incredibly privileged to visit it before its official opening. I even enjoyed a fresh glass of apple juice from the charming neighbors who are lucky enough to live right next door to Giono’s historic home.

Walking through the house, with its various rooms, I realized it is a true haven of peace, adorned with a beautifully eclectic art collection. It offered something far deeper than the typical museum experience- a stark contrast to the ‘Brontë sisters’ home I once visited in England, which feels frozen in time.  Instead, Giono’s house is bursting with life and vibrant energy, yet perfectly balanced by the soft, pastel romance that defines Provence.

A sculpture of a head that is one of the collection of Giono. He believed that the act of resting his hand upon it was deeply meditative.

The view into Giono's library and dining area that leads to his private study on the top floor,bathed in light. credit Manosque tourism office

You can feel the vitality especially in his study on the top floor, where his desk still sits by the window- the exact spot where he wrote his masterpieces while looking out over the rooftops of Manosque.

The energy flows effortlessly into the gardens. Giono surrounded his paradise with a wild, sun-drenched sanctuary of olive trees, cypresses, and overgrown greenery that feels like a pocket of wild nature.

Strolling through, I found myself not only admiring the landscape from every corner of the garden and the refined taste of the sculptures, but truly absorbing the harmonious, healing atmosphere as though the spirit of Giono himself was still very much present, lingering in the air.

His writing is so masterful that after reading one of his books overnight, I couldn't resist returning to the shop and purchasing several more. I am officially under his spell.

The writer Jean Giono in his garden.

Today, the extensive renovations have been completed, and Le Parais is now officially open to the public. It is an absolute must-see destination for anyone exploring the heart of Provence.

Gréoux -les - Bains

Do you like ancient Provencal villages, healing thermal springs, and exquisite French cuisine? If so, you will be thrilled to discover Gréoux: -les-Bains.

It is an old Roman town that breathes antiquity while remaining comfortable and welcoming. It is incredibly charming  to wander down pedestrian streets, discovering lovely restaurants, shops, and cozy cafes, at a slow, relaxed pace.  Monuments such as the church “ Notre Dame des Ormeaux"from the 13th century, which is stunning from the outside as it is on the inside.

A view on the houses

I highly recommend making the climb to the magnificent 12th-century “Chateau des Templiers”. The pathway up captivated me, lined with beautifully preserved houses, adorned with flowers and greenery. Every house possesses its own unique character, and there was a light breeze of freshness that accompanied me through this excursion.

There is something deeply restorative and spiritual about walking through Gréoux: no doubt enhanced by the knowledge that it is home to some of the region’s most famous and beneficial springs.

Spa thermal aux Thermes de Gréoux-les-Bains

This is an experience you can't miss.

After exploring the town, another highlight of my wellness journey was visiting the famous thermal spa complex. Stepping inside the thermal spa complex felt like stepping into a dedicated world of relaxation, immersing myself in the naturally warm, mineral-rich waters. I could instantly feel the tension leaving my body. The soothing atmosphere, combined with the gentle steam. Being wrapped in the soft, white sand felt like being Cleopatra in a luxurious and calming sanctuary.

It wasn’t just a spa treatment, but a holistic revitalization for both body and soul.

A true chocolate lover? Welcome to the club.

I was happy to discover a delightful shop dedicated entirely to chocolate, “L’éclat chocolaterie”

You can have an "Escale gourmande"- an ideal coffee break. There, you can enjoy their amazing handcrafted chocolates alongside a good coffee, or of course a rich hot chocolate.  I was absolutely thrilled with the handmade chocolate ice cream, with crunchy chocolate pieces inside. It was a guilty pleasure that I had to indulge again the very next day.

The discovery of Lake Esparron de Verdon

To be honest, when I thought about just the two of us being in the electric boat on the lake, I imagined it would be unsafe. But nothing like that; on the contrary, it was such a fun and, above all, deeply relaxing and enchanting experience to be in the boat in the huge Lake Esparron de Verdon. The lake is massive, and you can explore so far out. The scenery was spectacular, and even now, when I close my eyes and remember these moments, it instantly calms me. I highly recommend this lovely experience to everyone.

There are many ancient and exquisite villages to visit in Pays de Manosque; off we went to see the beautiful village of Riez- a place where history literally steps out into nature. Right at the entrance to the village, an astonishing sight greeted me.

Four majestic Roman columns, dedicated to Apollo, rising out of a green field. It feels like a time machine from 2000 years ago. Walking just

a few steps further, you come across the fascinating ruins of the Paleo-Christian Baptistery and Basilica. It’s incredible how Riez seamlessly blends these ancient treasures with the quiet beauty of the countryside.

Heading into the village center, I thoroughly enjoyed the bubbly, lively market. Afterwards, I sat on the lively terrace of a local restaurant, which was the perfect spot to relax and wrap up the visit with a quiet, peaceful stroll through the picturesque alleys.

We know that Lavender is one of the iconic symbols of Provence. Is there anything more relaxing and soothing than gazing upon a vast lavender field?

I was absolutely delighted to discover “Les Grandes Marges” estate in the Haute Provence. Situated close to the charming village of Valensole. It is owned by a family whose life is dedicated to crafting the authentic essences of Provence. Yes, there are vast fields of lavender, but they also cultivate others like almonds and roses, each blooming with the season.  In their boutique, I found their own homemade essential oils, alongside vinegar and honey. I adored the panorama from the hills; it felt like arriving at a serene sanctuary, where you can literarily meditate among the vibrant tapestry of fields.

My journey concluded with a visit to the village of Valensole. On a quiet weekday, the village felt like it was there just to greet me, embracing me in a warmth that made it feel like it was my own home too.  I adored the charming fountain that serves as the quaint heart of the village. I wandered up the steep paths until I reached the old church, and the narrow streets were lined with beautifully painted provincial houses.

I left Pays de Manosque, but its distinct flavours and deep impressions continue to echo in my soul.

Text and Images- Niva Josef

Recommendations- Where to sleep and eat.

The region is famous not only for its natural beauty and scents but also for its exceptional locations featuring high-standard hotels and restaurants.

Hotel- Spa and restaurant Villa Castellane- Gréoux les Bains

It is a stunning hotel, both inside and out. The rooms were spacious and incredibly comfortable, I had a wonderful balcony with a view over the swimming pool. I highly recommend this lovely hotel which is perfectly located in the heart of the town. Its restaurant serves exquisite cuisine.

Restaurants.

In Gréoux les Bains I had a lovely, flavourful dinner in the restaurant- Les Alpes, in the company of the director of the tourism office Barbara Packi , we had an enlightening discussion about the hidden gems of Gréoux les Bains and upcoming projects. The dinner was hearty, generous and simply delicous.

Restaurant- Les Alpes

In the authentic and warm nature of Provence, in the outskirts Greoux. I had a lunch in the restaurant -Cala Manger Boire. Very tasty and great food in a wonderful decor.

Restaurant- Cala manger Boire

In the village Riez, just below the market I had lunch in the village restaurant Joio- a down to earth and convivial food among the locals.

In the restaurant Joio in Riez

In Valensole the village I had a great time and especially I enjoyed very much the closure of my staying in the restaurant Le Jardin de Célina. Beautiful atmosphere, landscape and the food is extraordinary and original.

Le Jardin de Celina -the restaurant in Valencole

This is the scenery to the restaurant -Le jardin de Celina. Click in the picture for the link to the tourism office of Manosque - for all the adresses of the places I recommended.

Thank you very much Laura Negro and Marie Tardif from Manosque tourism office for organizing such a wonderful trip!