A summer in Berlin -Alive and kicking
Updated: Sep 13
While many cities go into a “summer slumber” towards the end of July – much like a bear retreating for winter hibernation, with streets emptying out and cities like Paris shutting down their theaters, restaurants and cafés-Berlin takes the exact opposite turn.
In the summer, Berlin blooms like a wild flower.-Or like a bear bursting into action, rather than falling asleep.
The city is vibrant day and night, powered by a rich cultural scene that unfold under an unpredictable sky.
Berlin: a city that knows how to embrace change and alternative culture like no other.
I have always been drawn to its underground scene- from its legendary music clubs to its endless festivals, sometimes hosted in quirky locations under funny names. This is Berlin, a constant challenge to conservatism. For an artist taking risks in one’s creation is liberating, and really what is art without taking risks?
Yes, Berlin summer charm isn’t only about high-energy culture. I enjoy the simpler moments just as much- taking a stroll through the vast Volkspark in Friedrichshain with its magical -inspired fountain. It felt like a quiet,enchanted escape, offering a gentle contrast to the city's lively pulse, or sharing a great dinner with friends at a neighborhood restaurant.
Berlin is remarkably generous and full of surprises when it comes to cultural life. Here are a few highlights from my summer, some of which return every year -so make sure to take notes!
The Zig Zag Jazz festival
I’ve always loved the name ZigZag- it brings to mind a classic French comedy-drama from the 80s – a Zig Zag story. The ZigZag jazz Club itself is a famous, long-standing institution in Schoenberg, and this year for the very first time, they organized a festival inside the Gasometer.
The Gasometer is a truly impressive landmark of Schoenberg. With its futuristic industrial structure, built between 1908 and 1910. It was once one of the three largest gas tanks in Europe. Imagine the thrill of experiencing a variety of live jazz concerts inside this monumental hall. Beyond the performances themselves, the venue held its own magic. The acoustics and glow of the lights wrapped the night in an unforgettable atmosphere.
The festival program, which ran from July 20 to August 1 was a vibrant crossroads of talent, bringing musicians from every corner of the globe to the Gasometer stage.
I found myself whishing I had been there for the very first note.
Each evening carried its own soul, breathing its own rhythm of Jazz. The Bad Plus, a trio from Minneapolis, casts a gentle spell of slow mediative soundscapes.
MonoNeon , an American bassist from Memphis brought a striking, experimental sound alongside his electric appearance- his neon like clothes and hat contributed significantly to the show.
I was completely swept away by the warm, resonant sounds of Al Di Meola’s guitar, A master from New Jersy famed from blending jazz fusion with world rhythms.
In the video projected while he was playing live, you could see one of his concerts with another brilliant Spanish guitarist Paco de Lucia.
Gonzalo Rubablcaba, the Cuban jazz pianist, brought his quartet to life with burst after burst of joyful, exuberant sound that filled the air with pure celebration.
And then Dhafer Youssef, the Tunisian composer and oud player. His music bridged worlds-a breathtaking weave of contemporary jazz and ancient Arabic traditions that resonated deep within the soul.
It left me with a quite revelation: music in its endless colours and seamless harmonies possesses the gentle power to dissolve all boundaries, misunderstandings and grievances- leaving behind nothing but connection.
From one festival to another.
Tanz im August and Sasha Waltz
Music and dance go together…but what is also wonderful about a Berlin summer is the multitude of festivals, that complement each other so well. After jazz, it was fascinating to explore what has the new dance compagnies had to offer.
Tanz im August- Dance in August- is a long standing traditional danse festival that takes place every summer in August. One of my good friends a Frenchman who became a Berliner, and has lived there for many years, works in a danse theater in Potsdam. He introduced me to this extraordinary festival.
And when you think of dance, and tradition, prepare to reset your expectations. If you are open to it, you will take off into a world of dance that can by anything-blending dance, theater, movement and a vivid dialogue between the performers and the audience.
Berlin is a bold, modern city and its dance compagnies perfectly reflect its character, This international festival plunges you into unpredictable worlds.
I saw a few performances there, that left a profound impression on me. I will start with those that were not originally part of the main festival lineup:
Sasha Waltz: For the time being and Zweiland.
Radialsysteme is a magical space where history meets the contemporary. Housed in a beautifully restored 19th century pumping station, right on the banks of the Spree. Unsurprisingly this unique space hosts some of the festival’s most vibrant performances, as well as the captivating works of Sasha Waltz.
I saw there the two pieces on the same night, it was fascinating to be introduced to the distinct universes of Sasha Waltz and her dancers. - There is no line directly between the two shows, but there is the vision of the chographer which involves a lot of originality, curiosity and a genuine exploration of the human psychology and the world surrounding him.When I saw the dancers starting to move in space, I thought of Peter Brook the master of the exploration of the here and now, a great concentration with international actors. The movement were getting stronger and more passionate with the time.
There were words of trying to coordinate with the movement and the present feeling. The music by Diegi Noguera who was also on stage created a sort of harmony between the sound and the danse. It seems like there is no specific rule that the dancer should obey, but there is also the mystery, is there or not? It was so intense that the piece seemed to hold the spectator in its hands…
Zweiland- photo Matthias Zoile
In the other performance Zweiland-It is almost 30 years since this creation was made. A friend of mine who had seen it it, decades ago. Was intrigued to experience a revival with a new cast of dancers.
A flood of evocative images emerges as you watch the piece unfold memories of the Berlin Wall, the years spent queuing in East Berlin for basic goods like margarine, the fiery spirit of Berlin youth, and the sheer freedom of courageous city that has always embraced the unusual and the “strange” in such a constructive, beautiful way.
The work remains deeply relevant, resonant, and profoundly touching.
fuking future compagny of the chographer Marco de Silva Ferreira
In Radialsysteme I also saw the Mille et une nuits by the French Iranien cheographer Sorour Darabi. It was an hypnotic fusion of opera, dance and myth that reimgined Scherazade's tales into a daring otherwordly exploration of identity and transformation.
From Tanz im August. I thoroughly enjoyed: ‘Fcking Future’ and ‘Tropicana
Both creations, though very different were utterly captivating through the dynamic, energy of their dancers.
Tropicana was an invitation to learn the reality behind the happy and exotic image of Cuban dance, while Fcking Future, felt like being transported out of space to meet the electric atmosphere of a Berlin club.
It was quite hilarious when I texted my friends, let’s meet outdoor after “Fcking Future” and have a drink.
And indeed, well if the future is so obscure and incomprehensible, we might as well enjoy the present in cool and spirited Berlin.
Berlin is a beautiful city. Thank your for your detailed report.
A great and most interesting review.
💕 I love Berlin